…but, what do you eat???

By Justina Walls

Lorna Sass is back, and better than ever! Her recently published The New Vegan Cookbook (Chronicle Books, 2001) is a sensory delight! Not only is the book full of wonderful new recipes, it is also full of beautiful photography, thanks to Jonelle Weaver. Sass has written several books that may already be favorites on your shelf, including The New Soy Cookbook, and Cooking under Pressure (a wonderful vegetarian cookbook for using a pressure cooker). Because of her earlier cookbook on soy, she has elected to use few soy products in her new book.

Each of her recipes is preceded by comments regarding the dish and ingredients within the dish. We feel as though she is there with us, giving us personal instruction to help guide and teach us about various ingredients. She also offers additional ideas for serving and use of the dish at the end of the recipe. (Most of these comments are not shown below because of space considerations.)

The recipes below would certainly be suitable for holiday dining, provided that one is willing to stretch a little in traditional holiday choices. Being vegetarian, we are all familiar with "stretching" that line already, so I'm sure that you will enjoy these! I've chosen options from various traditions worldwide; as we eat and enjoy the abundance of our country, let us remember the world at our bountiful tables. To John Robbins beautiful words, "May all be fed, may all be healed, may all be loved", I add - may all live in peace. Blessings to you and yours.

Hiziki Tapenade - makes about 1 cup - p. 28

*1 oz. Hiziki (also spelled Hijiki)

1 small clove garlic, peeled

½ c. pitted, oil-cured black olives

3 T. drained capers (packed in brine)

2 T. olive oil, plus more if needed

1-2 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice

salt (optional)

fresh thyme leaves, for garnish

Place the hiziki in a large bowl and pour enough boiling water on top to cover it by 2 inches. Let sit until tender and pliable, 10 to 20 minutes, stirring once or twice. Drain thoroughly.

With the motor of the food processor running, pop the garlic into the feed tube and chop. Add the hiziki, olives, capers, and oil. Process to create a coarse paste, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

Add enough lemon juice and salt, if needed, to give the tapendade an assertive flavor. (The amount you'll need will depend upon the saltiness and flavor of the olives and capers; I've added as much as 1 teaspoon of salt and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice.)

If serving as a dip, thin the mixture slightly with olive oil, if necessary. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with thyme.

Kabocha Squash and Spinach with Moroccan Spices - serves 4 - p. 73

½ t. Saffron threads

1 T. Water

1½ T. coriander seeds

¼ t. ground cinnamon

pinch of cayenne (depending on heat desired)

2 T. olive oil

1 large red onion (about 8 oz.) thinly sliced into rings

1 large yellow onion (about 8 oz.) thinly sliced into rings

1½ T. peeled, minced fresh ginger

2½ Cups chickpea cooking liquid (if it tastes good) or vegetable broth or water, plus more if needed

1 t. salt

fresh ground pepper

10 dried apricots (cut some in quarters, others in halves)

**2 pounds kabocha squash, trimmed, seeded and cut into 1-inch chunks (or substitute peeled butternut, buttercup, or other winter squash)

1½ Cups cooked chickpeas or one 15 oz. can, drained

10 oz. Spinach, trimmed of thick stems and torn into bits

1 t. grated lemon zest

1 to 2 T. freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/3 cup slivered almonds, for garnish

Crumble the saffron into a small bowl and pour water on top. Set aside.

Place the coriander and cumin seeds in a small, heavy skillet and set over high heat. Toast, stirring frequently, until the spices emit a fragrance, pop, or begin to darken, 1 to 2 minutes. (Take care not to burn them.) Immediately transfer the seeds to a coffee grinder reserved for this purpose (or use a mortar and pestle). Cool for a minute or two, then grind into a fairly fine powder. Blend in the cinnamon and cayenne. Set aside.

In a heavy 5-quart pot, heat the oil. Stir in the red and yellow onion rings and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently until they begin to brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the ginger and reserved ground spices and cook for 20 seconds. Add the chickpea cooking liquid, reserved saffron and its soaking water, salt and a few twists of pepper. Bring to a boil.

Stir in apricots, chickpeas, and squash. Cover and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the squash is tender but still firm, 20 to 35 minutes. (Peeled butternut or buttercup will probably take less time than unpeeled kabocha.) Stir in a bit of broth or water during this time if the mixture becomes dry.

Stir in the spinach and lemon zest. Cover and cook until the spinach is tender, a minute or two. Adjust the seasonings. Just before serving, stir in enough lemon juice to balance the sweetness.

The stew will thicken as it stands, but if you wish to thicken the sauce immediately, mash a few pieces of squash against the sides of the pot with a fork, and stir well to blend. Garnish individual portions with slivered almonds, if you wish.

Potato Cake - serves 4 to 6 - p. 85

Olive oil for preparing the pan, plus 1 T. additional

***¼ Cup Lewis Laboratories Brewer's Yeast

1¼ t. salt

¼ t. ground black pepper

2 pounds Yukon Gold Potatoes, trimmed of blemishes (dry off after rinsing)

Place a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 450 degrees. Liberally coat the bottom and sides of an 8 to 9-inch cake pan or spring-form pan with some of the oil. To weigh down the potato cake, locate a heavy pot or ovenproof casserole that will fit into the pan.

In a small bowl, combine the brewer's yeast, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

Using the thinnest slicing disk of your food processor, slice the potatoes. Arrange a fairly even layer of slices in the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle some of the brewer's yeast mixture on top. Repeat this process, creating a total of 6 or 7 layers and ending with a sprinkling of the brewer's yeast mixture on top. Drizzle on the remaining olive oil.

Lay 2 sheets of aluminum foil on top of the pan. Set the heavy pot on top and firmly press it into the potatoes. Seal the cake pan well by pressing the overhanging foil tightly to the sides and under the bottom. If using a spring-form pan, sit it on a foil lined baking sheet to catch the drips.

Transfer to the oven and fill the pot halfway with water to make it heavier still. Bake until the center of the "cake" offers no resistance when pierced (right through the foil) with a paring knife, about 1 hour.

Preheat the broiler. Remove the foil and set the "cake" about 5 inches beneath the broiler until the top is browned and crisp, 2 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes.

If you have used a spring-form pan, run a knife along the edges and remove the ring. Leave the "cake" on the base and transfer to a platter. If you've used a cake pan, cut the "cake" into wedges and serve directly from the pan. Serve hot.

Rustic Apple Tart - serves 6 for dessert or 4 as brunch entrée - p. 104

3 T. dried cranberries

¼ Cup hot water

2 to 2½ pounds, tart, firm apples, such as Granny Smith or Staymans

1/3 Cup Maple Syrup

4 sheets phyllo (also spelled Filo)

3 to 4 T. walnut oil

½ Cup walnuts, toasted and finely chopped

Put the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees. Line a large baking or cookie sheet (about 11 by 17 inches) with parchment paper and set aside.

Place the cranberries in a small bowl. Pour the water over them and set aside.

Peel and core the apples. Cut them into slices about ¼ inch thick. Scatter half of the apples in a large, non-stick skillet, and drizzle half of the maple syrup on top. Cook over medium-high heat, tossing frequently, until the apples have softened but still hold their shape, about 5 minutes. (The apples will release liquid as they cook; most of it will evaporate.) With a slotted spoon, transfer the batch to a large platter to cool. Repeat with the remaining apples and maple syrup.

To assemble the tart: Wet a kitchen towel and wring it well to remove as much water as possible. Unwrap the phyllo and set the stack on a flat surface. Gently remove 1 sheet of phyllo from the pile and set it on the parchment-lined baking sheet. Immediately cover the remaining phyllo with the moist towel to prevent it from drying out. Brush the sheet of phyllo with oil. Sprinkle with about a third of the walnuts, leaving about a 2-inch border around the edges. Set another sheet of phyllo on top, brush with oil, and sprinkle with walnuts. Repeat with the third sheet of phyllo. Set the fourth sheet in place and brush with oil.

Mound the apples haphazardly on top of the stacked phyllo in a rectangular shape, leaving 2 inches uncovered around the edges. Gently lift the edges of the phyllo, one side at a time, and fold them over to create a "frame" about 1½ inches wide around the apples. (Some of the slices will end up beneath the phyllo, but most will remain exposed.) Brush the phyllo "frame" with oil. Drain the cranberries and scatter then among the apples.

Bake until the phyllo is golden and crisp, 9 to 16 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. To present the tart on a platter, transfer it with the parchment in place, and then gently pull out the parchment. To serve, slice into squares.

Creamy Hazelnut Topping - makes about ½ Cup - p. 112

3 T. Maple Syrup

1 T. plus 1 t. Hazelnut oil

1½ t. vanilla extract

pinch of salt

4 oz. (½ Cup) extra-firm or firm tofu

Place the ingredients in the blender in the order given. Blend for 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides, and continue blending until very smooth and creamy, 30 to 60 seconds more.

Use immediately or refrigerate in a tightly sealed container for up to 5 days. Stir well before each use.

* Hiziki is a type of sea vegetable found in health food stores and Asian markets.

** Kabocha squash may also be called Hokkaido squash.

*** Available in health food stores.