…but,
what do you eat???
By
Justina Walls
If you loved The Millennium Cookbook, you will be delighted
with The Artful Vegan (Ten Speed Press, 2003), another innovation
from the famed Millennium restaurant in San Francisco.
Authors and chefs Eric Tucker, Bruce Enloe and pastry chef Amy
Pearce have created a luscious book that is full of beautiful
photography and anecdotes regarding the invention of various recipes.
The backgrounds of these three are rich and diverse, and that is
reflected in the featured recipes.
Flavors are big, inspiration is global, and the result is an
eclectic group of innovative recipes that are quite feasible for the
home chef.
Unlike the majority of
vegetarian and vegan cookbooks, this one does not include specific
chapters on nutrition and reasons for adopting a vegetarian diet.
Although that information often is helpful to newcomers to
vegetarianism, it is refreshing to see a gourmet book that features
incredible food, happens to be vegan, and does not need to “justify”
itself. The Millennium
restaurant is clearly a proponent of organic agriculture, and works with
local farmers and purveyors to ensure a supply of high quality, organic
food for its cuisine.
The instructions are
clear and easy to follow. Many
recipes include several recipes within one, allowing these separate
recipes to be used in conjunction with other creations of your own as
your imagination is stimulated. Nutritional
analyses are provided for each “recipe within the recipe”, for those
who choose to pay close attention to dietary details.
It was challenging
to choose only one recipe to represent this book!
Featured below is a dessert that provides an interesting use for
rhubarb. Also included are
the comments from the book for the dessert soup, and the suggested
sorbet. I hope it will assist you in making the most of a bountiful
harvest, and encourage you to try more recipes from this beautiful,
tantalizing cookbook.
Strawberry, Rose, and Rhubarb Soup – serves 4 – p. 196
This fresh and fruity dessert soup provides a nice balance of sweet
and tart. The sweetness of the strawberries, and rose water is
accentuated by the tartness of the rhubarb and orange.
Rose water can be found in Middle Eastern and Indian markets, as
it is a popular flavoring in those cuisines, traditionally used in
baklava or custards. The
flavors in this go well with our Pear-Cardamom Sorbet.
2 rhubarb stalks, sliced into 1” pieces (1 cup)
½ c. plus 2 T. Florida Crystals*
2 T. freshly squeezed orange juice
1 c. water
2 t. rose water
1 ½ t. arrowroot,** dissolved in 2 T. water
1 ½ c. chopped strawberries
2 T. grated orange zest or fresh mint chiffonade, for garnish
To make the soup, preheat the oven to 425F.
Toss the rhubarb, ½ cup of the sugar, and the orange juice
together in a bowl. Pour
the mixture onto a baking pan and bake for 10 minutes, or until the
rhubarb is cooked through but still retains its shape.
Let cool to room temperature.
In a saucepan, combine the water, the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar,
and the rose water over medium heat.
Bring to a simmer. Slowly
whisk in the arrowroot slurry, and continue to cook, without boiling,
for 2 to 3 minutes total, until the liquid becomes clear.
Remove from the heat, and stir in the strawberries and rhubarb
mixture. Refrigerate for 2 hours, or until well chilled.
To serve, divide the soup among 4 soup bowls, and garnish with orange
zest.
Pear-Cardamom Sorbet – makes 3 cups – p. 201
French butter pears absolutely must be used when in season.
These pears are very aromatic and have an excellent texture when
cooked down. The ground
cardamom adds an exotic twist. Substitute
ground nutmeg for an equally aromatic quality.
4 French butter pears, peeled and diced (4 cups total)
6 T. agave nectar***
½ c. water
1 ½ T. freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ c. almond milk
¼ t. ground cardamom
Pinch of salt
Place the pears, agave, and water in a small saucepan over medium
heat. Cover and simmer for
12 to 15 minutes, until the pears are soft and appear slightly
translucent. Transfer to a
blender, and add the lemon juice, almond milk, cardamom, and salt.
Blend until smooth. Let
cool slightly before freezing.
Transfer to an ice cream maker, and freeze according to the
manufacturer’s instructions. (Store
frozen, in an airtight container, for up to 2 weeks.
If the sorbet becomes icy, defrost and refreeze it.)
* “Florida Crystals” is the brand name of a less refined,
granulated cane sugar.
** Arrowroot is a natural thickening powder, used in lieu of
cornstarch or flour.
*** Agave nectar is a natural liquid sweetener from the agave plant. Light
maple syrup could also be used.
Note: All of these items
are easily available in natural foods stores.