…but, what do you eat???

By Justina Walls

This column generally features cookbooks that are vegan in order to present information that is of use to all vegetarians. However, sometimes there is a reason to vary the policy a bit. The Grit (Hill Street Press, 2001) by Jessica Greene and Ted Hafer, presents such a reason. This cookbook is based upon the favorites served at a restaurant by the same name located in Athens, Georgia. For those unfamiliar with Athens, it is a charming town that is home to University of Georgia, and a center of popular music. Sprinkled through the cookbook are quotes from numerous musicians, all professing their love for this restaurant and its food. While in Georgia in May for the graduations of our two nephews, one of them in Athens, we made a beeline for this popular place. We were not disappointed! Our group of 7 consisted of 2 vegans, 1 sometimes vegetarian, and 5 "is this going to be weird food?", with an age range of 18 to 77. Everyone was delighted with lunch! In addition to the food being quite tasty, the wait staff was very pleasant and helpful, and there were works from local artists scattered on the walls.

These recipes are easy to follow and prepare. Some are designated as "fundamentals", including the gravy recipe featured in this column. (Any cookbook that understands that gravy truly is an essential has my attention from the beginning!) Of course, what they really mean is that these recipes are the secret ingredients for other recipes. The recipes that are vegan are noted as such, and substitutions are quite easy when dairy or eggs are used. For all you chocoholics, there are several chocolate cakes, cookies, and other chocolate delights (including Chocolate Vegan Death Cake!), but as my chocoholic husband thinks I’ve featured too many chocolate recipes in this column, you’re getting one of the apple pie recipes!

It offers various ethnic food choices, including Italian, Indian, Mexican, and Middle Eastern, but its core is based upon generous portions of down home simple foods that everyone loves. We had difficulty finding this cookbook locally (metro Denver), even though it had been reviewed in a national magazine. An email search from the publisher was not fruitful either. However, the restaurant stocks the cookbooks, as do local Athens bookstores. You may reach The Grit Restaurant at 706-543-6592

If you find yourself anywhere near Athens, do make the effort to visit. Located in a nineteenth century storefront near the campus, The Grit is easy to find. Its address is appropriate – 199 Prince - and you will find that it is a prince of a place!

Grit Yeast Gravy 

– p. 7 - yields 4 cups

1 c. (2 sticks) vegan margarine

¾ c. whole-wheat flour

¾ c. flaked nutritional yeast

2 c. regular (not reduced fat) soymilk

½ c. soy sauce

1 ¾ c. hot water

2 T. vegan Worcestershire sauce

In a large, heavy-bottom saucepan over medium heat, melt margarine completely. Stir in flour and yeast until blended and continue to heat roux until mixture begins to bubble. Use only enough heat to maintain vigorous bubbling, whisking constantly for 4 minutes. This is the time required to cook the flour to smoothness, and vigorous whisking is important to avoid burning.

Continue rapid, thorough whisking and add soymilk gradually. The mixture will quickly become thick and custard-like. Combine soy sauce, water, and Worcestershire sauce and add to gravy gradually. Blend well after every addition and do not add liquid so rapidly that gravy is very think. If gravy does become too thick from the addition of too much liquid, continued cooking will thicken it.

Grit Style Tofu 

– p. 8 - yields 2 servings

One of the restaurant’s favorites is the Golden Bowl – Grit-Style Tofu served over steamed brown rice drizzled with melted butter (or vegan margarine), topped with Grit Yeast Gravy or sautéed vegetables and shredded mild cheddar*. The cookbook notes that this recipe should yield tofu with a slightly crispy, deliciously yeasty exterior and a tender, moist interior. Excessive soy sauce will make the tofu too salty, while too much oil and yeast will give a gooey result.

1 15-oz. Block firm tofu

Vegetable oil

Soy sauce

Nutritional yeast

Cut tofu into cubes slightly smaller than playing dice. Lightly oil a non-stick skillet and place over high heat. Allow oil to heat slightly and add tofu. Sauté, tossing with a non-metal spatula until evenly and lightly golden brown. Sprinkle lightly with soy sauce. Sauté briefly to further brown tofu. Remove from skillet, draining and discarding any excess fluid.

Rinse and wipe skillet dry. Lightly oil and place it over high heat. Allow oil to become very hot and add tofu. Sauté tofu, tossing with a non-metal spatula almost constantly until very well browned. Sprinkle with soy sauce to taste. Sprinkle with nutritional yeast to coat tofu cubes and, tossing vigorously, sauté for a few seconds and remove from heat. Serve immediately.

Collard Greens 

– p. 85 – 8-10 servings

1 large bunch (about 3 pounds) fresh collard greens, well rinsed

Water

¾ c. Grit Yeast Gravy

½ c. cider vinegar

2 T. soy sauce

1 T. sugar

2 t. hot sauce

1 t. dry mustard

1 ¾ t. salt

½ t. white pepper

¼ t. baking soda

Strip stems from leaves of collards. Roll handfuls of leaves as if rolling a cigar and chiffonade into narrow strips, then chop strips into smaller pieces. Place in a large stock pot. Add enough water to cover greens when greens are forced down by hand into bottom of pot, then add 3 cups water.

Place pot over high heat, stir in remaining ingredients and cover. Bring to a vigorous boil, stirring occasionally, and cook greens 35 minutes to 1 hour, depending on desired tenderness. Check flavor and adjust seasonings as desired.

Basic Pie Crust 

– p. 105 – yields 1 9-inch single-crust pie crust

1 c. all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

Pinch of freshly ground cinnamon (optional)

1/3 c, plus 2 t. vegetable shortening, chilled

1 c. ice water

1 T cider vinegar

Whisk together flour, salt, and cinnamon. Cut shortening into flour mixture with pastry blender until particles of shortening range in size from that of a chocolate chip to ½ the size of a chocolate chip. Blend ice water and cider vinegar and sprinkle evenly on dough 1 teaspoon at a time, lightly tossing with pastry blender after each addition. Continue just until dough is moist enough to form a cohesive ball. Test small portions by squeezing between fingers as liquid is added. While 5 or 6 teaspoons of liquid is usually sufficient it is imperative that dough is tested as it is being made, since the condition of the flour or the humidity of the room can affect results. Use as little liquid as necessary.

With floured hands, form dough into ball and flatten ball into disc. Lay disc on lightly floured sheet of wax paper slightly larger than a 9-inch pie dish. Sprinkle dough lightly with flour and use floured bottom of pie dish to press dough into a flatter, wider symmetrical disc. Using a floured rolling pin and working from the center out in all directions, roll dough out thinly and evenly into a 13-inch round. Maintain circular shape and add minimal flour as needed.

Use layer of wax paper to flip dough over into pie dish. Center and gently press dough down into dish. Trim the edges with kitchen shears or knife, leaving a ¾ inch over hang. Tuck the overhang under itself, resting the edge on the flared edge of the pie dish. Crimp the edges by pressing lightly with the tines of a fork, or flute the edges by pressing your thumb and index finger, held about 1 inch apart, against the outside of the rim, then poking an indentation through the space from the inside edge of the pie crust with the index finger of your other hand.

Crust can be prebaked or frozen for later use.

To prebake crust, line inside of crust with aluminum foil and fill with dry beans, rice, or metal pie weights. Bake in a preheated 350 F oven for 30 to 40 minutes or until golden brown on edges. (Beans and rice can be retained for the same use at a later time.)

 – p.107 – yields 8 to 10 servings

2 batches Basic Pie Crust, divided

2 T. cornstarch

Freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon

2 t. pure vanilla extract

2 t. brandy

4 large Granny Smith apples (or enough to yield 4 ½ cups), peeled and cut into ¼ inch slices

1 ¼ c. sugar

3 T. sour cream**

2 T. butter, chopped into small pieces***

1 T. all-purpose flour

¼ t. freshly ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 450 F. Line a pie pan with a batch of Basic Pie Crust.

In a small mixing bowl, thoroughly blend cornstarch, lemon juice, vanilla extract, and brandy into a paste. Combine paste and remaining ingredients in a large bowl and stir together until combined. Transfer into pie crust and cover with top crust. Flute edges of pie crust and prick top crust. Place pie on a large cookie sheet.

Bake at 450 F for 10 to 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 F. Bake an additional 45 to 55 minutes until golden brown and juice bubbles from top crust. Cool before serving.

* Vegans may use VeganRella cheddar, or the brand of your choice.

** For vegans, Tofutti brand sour cream is an excellent vegan sour cream. There are also other vegan sour creams available commercially, as well as recipes for this ingredient.

*** Vegans may substitute vegan margarine for the butter.