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but, what do you eat???

By Justina Walls

Nava Atlas is a familiar name to those who have cooked vegetarian for years.  (Remember her first book of many, Vegetariana (1984), which she also illustrated?)   The Vegetarian Family Cookbook by Nava Atlas (Broadway Books, 2004), is a book for families of all sizes and persuasions.  Atlas offers an abundance of information, tips, and recipes to help everyone (vegetarian or not) eat healthier, and still manage to get dinner on the table in a relatively short time. 

The recipes include a nutritional analysis, and ideas for embellishing as well as suggested accompaniments for a complete meal.  She understands that children and adults do not always like foods prepared in the same manner, and so she offers basic recipes with choices for variations or developing more sophisticated seasonings and presentations.  All of the recipes are vegetarian, and most include simple changes for making them vegan.

In addition to a wonderful and varied selection of recipes, each chapter begins with tips, seasoning ideas, variations, combinations – she is generous in sharing so much of her creativity with us.  The appendix offers a glossary, suggestions of additional books and publications, websites, reasons to go vegetarian and vegan, community supported agriculture resources, and even addresses the endless question presented to vegetarians - protein.   

The Baked Risotto recipe that follows illustrates Atlas’ understanding of the difference between the palates of adult and children.  Risotto can be very simple and unadorned, or can have more sophisticated toppings and inclusions.  As the traditional manner of cooking risotto requires constant stirring, this baked version is a time saver and allows the cook to be working on other parts of the meal, or even on something unrelated to the meal.  Note that this recipe has not been altered for altitude, so if you live at high altitude and find it not quite done, do feel free to add more liquid and cook a bit longer.   

The Vegetarian Family Cookbook, Atlas’ eighth vegetarian cookbook, will be a fine addition to your cookbook library, whether you have wee ones at home or not, have an all vegetarian family or not, and enjoy uncomplicated or more sophisticated tastes.  Remember, it also makes a great gift!    

Baked Risotto – page 178 – 4 to 6 servings

1½ c. Arborio rice*

4 c. prepared vegetable broth, or 2 15-oz. cans reduced sodium vegetable broth, or two vegetable

bouillon cubes dissolved in 4 c. hot water

2 garlic cloves, very finely minced

2 c. hot water (plus more, as needed – see note below)

Preheat oven to 375 F.

Combine the rice with the stock, 1 c. water, and the garlic in a 2-quart casserole dish, Cover and bake for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes.  At the third stirring, add 1 more cup of water.  When done, the rice should have a tender and creamy texture.

Let the risotto stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Variations:

Here are some wonderful ways to dress up individual portions of risotto.  Normally, additions are stirred into the risotto, but you can also use them as toppings, as does Atlas.  This way, kids are more likely to enjoy the meal, while allowing adults and older kids to savor more complex flavors.  She also reserves a portion of whatever vegetable is added to serve on the side for the children’s portions.

-Wilted spinach or Swiss chard and corn kernels or goat cheese

-Sautéed zucchini, red pepper, and herbs

-Finely diced baked winter squash, sautéed red onion, and toasted walnuts

-Sautéed leeks and chopped imported black olives

-Roasted eggplant and Italian-style stewed tomatoes

-Steamed asparagus and wilted spinach

-Grated fresh Parmesan or Parmesan-style soy cheese

-Grated mozzarella or mozzarella-style nondairy cheese

* It is very important to use Arborio rice for risotto.  Other types of rice will not perform in the same manner when making risotto.  Arborio rice is easily available at major grocery stores as well as health food stores.