…but, what do you eat???

By Justina Walls

The Native Foods Restaurant Cookbook (Shambhala Publications, Inc, 2003), by Tanya Petrovna, represents some of the recipes used in The Native Foods Restaurant chain located in several towns of southern California. (Keep that tidbit in your notes for when you travel there!) Having been reared by European immigrant parents who were greatly impacted by war torn Europe, it might seem unusual that Petrovna would be a chef in sunny, southern Cal, but it is legitimate, for she has within her lineage that description known as "foodies", and she deliciously continues her inheritance. If her name seems familiar to you, she is also the author of an earlier book, The Meat-Lover’s Vegetarian Cookbook.

Although her business partner, Ray White, is a Nipmuc from the Alquonquin Nation, "Native Foods" does not refer to Native American foods. The term refers to "indigenous to the earth and low on the food chain". The recipes in the cookbook are eclectic, and feature various cultures. She offers many sauces, dressings, and condiments that can be stored and used in not only the recipes in her book, but in many of your own creation. The appetizer section contains the familiar, such as Guacamole, and the never heard of, such as Papa’s Yugoslavian Ivar. This theme (familiar and "what?") is continued throughout the book, and makes it fun and interesting. Inspiration for her recipes comes from Korean, Mexican, French, Indian, Japanese, Russian, Caribbean, and even more cuisines. In fact, the curry sauce featured later in this column was literally inspired by Mahatma Gandhi’s life. This book is literally a cultural smorgasbord, and Petrovna’s presentation is delightful.

The narrative includes her personal story of becoming vegetarian, and later becoming a chef, and also discusses reasons for others becoming vegetarian. She includes a glossary of foods to prepare the reader for the upcoming recipes, which use a number of meat analogs (seitan, Tempeh, Tuno, TVP, tofu). She also includes glossaries for cooking terms, and preparation and cooking methods, and basic bean and grain description and cooking methods. Want to make your own seitan? She shows you how. It is a great book for someone new to vegetarian cuisine, and also very useful for the more experienced cook.

The recipes in this book are easy to follow, generally short, and easy to prepare. Ingredient analyses are not included, but as the foods are low fat and no cholesterol, simply eating reasonable portions and a variety of foods should alleviate any concerns one might have in that regard. She promises us that her vegan cuisine is so delicious and satisfying that it has converted many confirmed meat-eaters into a healthier and more compassionate way of eating, including her business partner!

As Deborah Madison, a well-known vegetarian cookbook author comments in the forward of this book, Petrovna lavishes us with a rare ingredient: joy! I love her response to the question "Are you a strict vegetarian?" Her answer? "No, I’m a fun vegetarian!" (Personally, I plan on borrowing that phrase a lot from now on!) She brings us joy, comfort, and lots of tasty offerings from her restaurants in her latest book. Enjoy!

(As we hope you noticed, this issue of Vegetarian Living includes a picture of the cover of the featured cookbook. This editorial decision was made, no doubt, to assist you in finding the cookbook on the shelves of bookstores and health food stores. (After all, we are a very visual society!) This change resulted in less space for recipes, but we hope the review will tweak your interest in taking a look at this book for yourself.)

Gandhi’s Curry Sauce – p. 117 – 2 cups - Serving suggestion: Serve with the Gandhi Bowl

1&1/2 c. canned coconut milk

1 c. fresh cilantro leaves, loosely packed

½ c. water

¼ c. safflower or sunflower oil

¼ c. soy sauce

¼ c. maple syrup

2 garlic cloves, chopped

2 T. curry powder

2 t. grated fresh ginger

½ t. crushed red chili (optional)

Place all ingredients in a blender and puree.

(We heated the sauce on low heat prior to serving it with the Gandhi Bowl.)

Gandhi Bowl – p. 214 – "serves one, then the world"

2/3 c. cooked brown rice

2/3 c. cooked basmati rice

2 c. steamed mixed veggies

¼ c. Gandhi’s Curry Sauce

1 sautéed Tempeh patty (2-3 oz.), blackened*

2 T. dried cranberries

2 T. chopped green onions

Combine rice in a bowl, and top with steamed mixed vegetables and sauce. Chop Tempeh patty into cubes and put over veggies. Garnish with dried cranberries and green onions.

A good idea: When a journalist asked Mahatma Gandhi, "What do you think of Western civilization?" he answers, "I think it would be a good idea."

*Note: Tempeh is a pressed, fermented soybean product that is available in health food stores and some major supermarkets. Room does not allow for detailed instructions on preparing sautéed, blackened Tempeh – please refer to the book, or use your own spicing recipe for blackened Tempeh, tofu, etc.